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Post by michsteelguy on Sept 1, 2015 9:00:01 GMT -5
Ok, I have heard of some of you guys "saving" your builds and I was wondering how you do that. Let me explain..... I had my build almost complete: paint applied, decals placed and now time for clearcoat. Well..... turns out that the clear was a little to hot and the some major decals started to wrinkle up. They didnt really "shatter" though. I started to apply Micro set and that seems to help but didnt cure the problem. What do you guys do when this happens? ? Im Not starting over! Heres another issue that I had with this clear coat (Krylon) that I had with another build...... it was hot enough to "melt" my tamiya paint! Paint started to run after drying for 2 weeks in non-humid conditions. Not sure if I held to close, laid that coat too heavy, totally not sure at all? Any ideas for both issues?
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Post by DonCarp on Sept 7, 2015 12:32:41 GMT -5
I had a situation with (Krylon) Clear. It was my first build and of course I did not know anything. My build was complete and I applied the clear coat and after it dried it was not smooth it felt clumpy and thick. Now I did not know to warm it up but it was a warm day prob 84 degree's and it was not humid at all. My thought after coming on this site was I should of warmed it up but I did have in mind how warm or how long to keep it in the warm water?
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Post by vintageracr59 on Nov 15, 2015 20:38:54 GMT -5
Jeez... Well, if you have replacement decals, I'd use scotch tape to remove the wrinkled ones, then apply a thin coat of J&J Klear floor finish using a 1" wide disposable foam brush. In (at least) 48 hours, re-apply your decals, wait another 48 hours, and re-apply another thin coat of Klear floor finish and let it dry as well. Klear has never, ever been too hot for me - just be careful not to use too much or it will crack like an alligators skin... Hope that helps?
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